Citizen of the Congo or Zaire?

Zaïre Identity card

It’s been eleven years since the Democratic Republic of the Congo was born after the death of Zaire caused by the Marshal’s flight into exile with his courtesans.

The name of the country has changed, its inhabitants call themselves Congolese and there is a new flag. Strangely there never was any Congolese identity card. I always have a strange feeling when I see people proudly showing the ‘green card’ that I wasn’t lucky to have, since I was under 18 years of age when the Kadogos entered Kinshasa.

New building site on the list!

erosion at Binza Ozone

Kinshasa, municipality of Ngaliema, Binza Ozone, district of Manenga. The heavy rains of the last few days have caused considerable damage. More than twenty dwellings were engulfed in enormous erosion that continues to grow and gains ground every day.

So far, luckily, there has been no casualty to deplore. The residents of this area have to be careful when it rains, so as not to get trapped. They leave their houses and they watch, powerless, as Nature swallows their dwellings. Don’t tell them that rain is a godsend!

«We warned the authorities right from the beginning, when this erosion was still very small, but nothing was done», one of the district residents told me. He is now homeless. The many appeals for help sent by the population do not seem to reach the ears of our dear leaders. Maybe they are waiting for someone to die, before they do something?

Only a few weeks ago, I was wondering about the criteria on the basis of which building sites were selected but I am wondering even more now, as I see how fast infrastructures are deteriorating in the entire country. Roads, pipes, water and electricity distribution, everything is in disarray.

Whereas the population is still waiting for work to begin on the five building areas, our rulers seem to hold their breath, waiting for the Chinese to come with their billions. I am wondering how long they can still hold their breath and whether they don’t run the risk of suffocating.

With the five building areas, each Congolese expects his or her living conditions to improve. Will the Chinese billions be sufficient to solve the problems of the entire Congolese population?

Watch this space…

Photo Album of the erosion

Is he forgotten or still present in Congolese memory?

Laurent désiré Kabila

After he was greeted as a liberator in the capital Kinshasa on May 17, 1997, the man whom the Congolese affectionately called Mzee was assassinated, over 4 years after he came to power. Seven years have gone by since his demise; yet billboards bearing his image are still prominent in some parts of the country, like elements of decor.

Whereas some Congolese see a hero in him, others hold him responsible for the present chaos in the Congo. The man who fought and removed from power the dictator, the all-powerful and formidable Mobutu, is accused of having made pacts during his armed struggle, with some neighboring countries which are now actively involved in the conflicts in the Eastern part of the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Is Laurent Désiré Kabila still present not only visually but also in the Congolese’s memory?

Interview with Baloji, a black sorcerer in a whites’ country

Baloji, Hôtel Impala

A few weeks ago, I heard about Baloji, a young rapper of Congolese origin who lives in Belgium. I researched him on the Internet and was able to listen to sound bites of his numbers, to view one of his clips and – I was caught.

I enjoyed listening to this young man from the Congo, with his candid verve, one who looks straight at things, who does not try to avert his look from reality, even though reality is not always clean.

I came across Baloji in Kinshasa and I must admit that after meeting this young man and having a long discussion with him, I have some renewed hope. It was comforting to see that there are young Congolese who do not give in to the tradition of clothes addiction, of looking instead of being.

Baloji Website
Baloji Blog
The videoclip « tout ceci ne nous rendra pas le Congo »

Arguing with a traffic officer

For the first time in my life, I almost hit a policeman. I was so annoyed with him that I could have strangled him. My day had started off nicely, but everything went wrong as I was on my way to a very important work appointment. Unfortunately, the cab driver I had hired fell into the hands of traffic officers, and my problem was that they seemed very determined not only to go after the driver but also to waste my time and get me to miss my appointment.

«You started a third lane, pull up to the side». The driver yielded, got out of his vehicle and walked off with the policemen. I and the other clients knew that as usual they were going to discuss separately, to negotiate the level of the «fine», bribe money if you must call things by their name.
After twenty minutes I lost my patience and decided to go and have a look at what was going on. As he saw me walking towards them, one of the officers shouted at me: « this is none of your business, go and wait in the car!».

Then I got really annoyed and the situation went from bad to worse.

Excerpt of the discussion:

Me: You are wasting my time, I have an important meeting, and I will be late…

Policeman: Go and wait in the car, Sir!

Me: I won’t go, I have wasted enough time, I am an honest Congolese going to work and I find it ridiculous that a bunch of corrupt policemen should be wasting my time…

Policeman: Who did you say is a corrupt policeman? Do you know that I could have you arrested for contempt?…

Me: Contempt of what? Contempt of a corrupt person? Arrest me right away if you are bold enough or let the cab driver go so he can drive honest Congolese citizens to their destinations, they who have better business to do than trying to hold other people to ransom…

Policeman: You are speaking to me like this because I am wearing a uniform. The way you are dressed, you wouldn’t speak to me like this if I was in plain clothes…

Me: Corrupt AND a fashion addict? That’s the last straw! I wonder how Congo can become a developed country with people like you…

Policeman: Stop being disrespectful, I’m older than you…

Me: Do you really think that you deserve respect when your only occupation is to annoy good people by behaving stupid?…

While I was having this conversation with the policeman, the negotiation continued between the cab driver and another policeman. After a few minutes, the driver came to me and said: “it’s settled, we may go.” He had just been relieved of 5,000 Congolese Francs by these corrupt cops.

What I find surprising in the story is that I was facing these corrupt policemen alone. The other clients aboard the taxi found it normal that these uniformed men should rob the driver and they did not seem to be in a hurry.

It takes a Congolese to understand and tolerate this kind of thing.

SNEL’s cable thieves in jail

Kinshasa : SNEL's cable thieves

A few days ago, I was asked to cover a trial in the Yolo neighborhood of the municipality of Kalamu in Kinshasa. Two men were appearing in court, one for stealing 56 meters of cable belonging to the National Electricity Board (SNEL) and the other one for buying the stolen cable.

This kind of theft is quite common in Kinshasa and the thieves did not encounter any major problem, since there is hardly ever any power in districts like Yolo. They can take advantage of darkness and it is easier for them to snip the cables since they know that there is no risk of electric shock.

The trial was more like a drama than anything else. Four chairs and a garden table, a sun screen, two judges, one counsel for SNEL and another for the two accused men, and of course a handful of local residents. Journalists were also attending.

The verdict: A twelve months’ jail sentence plus a US$10 fine for the robber and six months’ jail for the receiver. I hope that these criminals will serve their time and that we will not see the same scenario again, of criminals buying their freedom for a small sum of money, after a few weeks.

Photo album of the trial

Smart Congolese: Child Traders!

Kinshasa : Child Traders

The series about Smart Congolese is a great success! The traffic police post attracted more than 200 comments and more than 1600 clicks in 4 days, a record number! Today it’s child traders. I always said that the Congolese were the smartest in the world but today I am adding a line inspired by a French play: Aux âmes congolaises, la débrouillardise n’attend pas le nombre des années (In the Congo, you don’t have to be old to be smart).

I see child traders every day, and in growing numbers. A few days ago I was on the Kinshasa University campus doing a report for work, and I happened to talk to two of these young ‘businessmen’ who agreed to share with me the broad lines of their business.

These kids have a real sense of business. They agreed to answer my questions but I had to pay to take their picture.

Just children, but having to manage
They are 13 and 14 years of age. Every day, these two children roam the UNIKIN campus trying to sell their stock of pens, paper and biscuits, mainly. They haven’t been to school in a long time, and university? Difficult for them to hope or even dream of setting foot there as students.

With deteriorating living conditions, their parents’ meager wages, the long teachers’ strikes, these children have no other choice but to manage. They have at least 1,500 francs’ worth of goods in their boxes and they told me that they made an average of 400 to 500 Congolese francs’ profit daily. This is less than US$1, which is not much, given the cost of living in Kinshasa.

One can always have dreams
As a child, you have dreams. When I was 13 years old, I dreamed of having the latest game console, but these children have other dreams. “Later I want to go to Europe, I want to work, to earn a lot of money to help my family”, one of the boys said in response to my question about what he wanted to do later.

Maybe those two will be among those who will try to swim across the ocean in order to reach the European paradise!

Our youth are the future?
Does the future of the Congo have to rest on these increasingly less educated and more and more cunning youths?

Smart Congolese: The traffic police (’roulages’)

Kinshasa : Roulages

I have been asked by many of you to write about good things or about those Congolese who manage to get along in a country without any formal structures. I am therefore starting this series on ‘Smart Congolese and the first ones today will be the traffic police, more commonly called ‘roulages’.

The job
Their role is to regulate traffic and to take care that the rules of the road are complied with. They are found along the few roads that are still paved in Kinshasa and in other parts of the Congo. Every day, they perform their job, standing up to the hot tropical sun, but they do not like the rain too much. When it starts to rain, they run for shelter and in the meantime, drivers have to manage without them.

Just a few figures
One traffic officer speaking on condition of anonymity gave me some very interesting figures. When he is lucky enough to receive his pay, the amount is about US$30 per month. He has 6 children, two at university, three in school and the last one is still a toddler.

He pays US$80 in rent. Not counting the cost of text books and various other additional costs, he pays 180 dollars per year and per child in university, and approximately 120 dollars per year and per child in school. Should I mention also that being the head of the household, this man must also feed, dress and pay for health care for himself and his family?

Based on these statistical data, you don’t need to be a financial expert to see that this civil servant spends a lot more than what he receives.

« I get by », he answered when I asked him how he managed.

So how do they manage?
They stop as many offending drivers as possible during the day, and they make them cough up a few francs. If there has been no real offense, he has to find one, to make one up, if necessary. The fines vary, depending on the driver, and even on the color of the driver’s skin. And thanks to oral tradition, payment is made without a receipt.

Depending on how lucrative their spot is, traffic officers can make an average of 20 dollars per day. They must give some of the money to the « commanders », those who stay locked up in their offices all day long. « I give the commander some of the money I make so that he makes sure to always assign me the best spots » my traffic friend gave me to understand.

The best customers
Top of their list of best customers are cab drivers. These are not very well-educated and they don’t know their rights too well, often they are not legitimate and therefore they are ready to pay without making too much of a fuss. But you have to be very careful, because they are very unpredictable. One moment of distraction and they will slip through your fingers.

Then come the expatriates (preferably whites) who do not know the rules of the country very well and they are shaking with fear in front of police officers, thinking that they are as nasty as the ones back home. But one has to be careful, because they might know someone higher up and they could make a fuss.

Because of this situation, should we badmouth the traffic police for corruption, or should we consider that similar to other underpaid Congolese civil servants, they are fighting for survival in their own ways, in order to earn their daily bread?

Electrical wiring made in Congo

Electrical wiring made in Congo

I broke into a cold sweat a few days ago, when I looked at my home electrical wiring system. Do we need to ask about the source of the sudden power cuts and many fires happening in Kinshasa and in the rest of the country?

I should not complain, and I had better think myself lucky and maybe tell myself that having something that looks like a circuit breaker and fuses means progress, because there is nothing similar in most of the neighboring parcels, only a couple of poorly insulated cables wired to the electrical grid directly.

Whenever they are challenged about the large number of power cuts, managers of SNEL protect themselves by rejecting the fault on the population who are making these shaky connections to the grid, thus overloading it. There is no policy for controlling or punishing offenders, but the national electricity board is able to demonstrate its power when requiring the settlement of invoices even though it didn’t supply any power for months.

I hope that all these problems will be resolved with the 5 building sites… In the meantime, all I can do is to pray that there is no short-circuit and especially no fire in my house.

Being a journalist: a risky job in the Congo

One journalist was arrested more than a week ago in Kinshasa as his newspaper was investigating some mining deals in DRC.

Excerpt of an official statement published by the NGO Journalist in danger:

MAURICE KAYOMBO, a journalist for “LES GRANDS ENJEUX”, a monthly investigation and analysis magazine that is printed in South Africa and distributed in Kinshasa and Lubumbashi, has been kept for a week in the prosecutor’s cells close to the Kinshasa/Gombe Court. According to official sources, the journalist is accused of “blackmail and denigration of an authority” following a complaint lodged by Mr. Christophe KANINIO, Secretary General of the Ministry for Mines. He was arrested by judicial inspectors on Wednesday, 9 January 2008, in the offices of the General Secretary for Mines where he had been called to visit in order to check some information in his possession.

Clearly, there are certain affairs that one shouldn’t approach… To go and poke your nose into mining contracts can indeed be very risky. At best, you end up in prison but at worst, you can be offered a trip to the cemetery. This is not very encouraging for those which choose the profession to inform others…

In memory of:
Serge Maheshe
Franck Ngyke
Bapuwa Mwamba